Trail Bike Vs XC Bike With Annie Last

Trail Bike Vs XC Bike With Annie Last


– [Neil] Cross-country bikes need to
be good at an awful lot of things. Above all, they need to be really fast
climbers, but they also need to be good at riding down in technical sections. – [Annie] So let’s have a look at how
my cross-country race bike differs from Neil’s trail bike. ♪ [music] ♪ – Number one, lightness versus strength
and reliability across the component choice. My duty sensor is built for
aggressive trail riding, so you can see the difference throughout the bike. It’s
got really big, oversized carbon fiber tubing, built to be nice and strong,
alloy cranks, really quite chunky, again really strong, and even the fork,
it’s a Fox 34, so 34-mil stanchions, built for stiffness and strength. – As you can see, my frame is a
lot more slim-line. It’s got a lot, kind of smaller tubes, which means
that the bike’s a lot lightweight, which really helps when you’re racing to
go up hills faster. And also I’ve got the carbon crank, and the fork has got a
carbon crown, as well. So it’s all about being lightweight, to
maximize the speed climbing. – Handlebar choice and position is a
big difference from the trail bike and a cross-country bike. I’ve got 760-mil-wide
bars here, with a 50-mil stem. This is really short and also really high,
so it helps get that weight behind the bike, great for going downhill and for
aggressive riding. – So on my bike, I’ve got the stem a lot
lower, got the stem slung down as low as possible. This has helped me keep the
weight more over the front of the bike when I’m doing steep climbs. I’ve
got a narrow handlebar width, at like 640, which, kind of, means
that I don’t need to go quite as wide, not got quite as technical descents.
It’s more about the climbing and the descending, so it’s a compromise. And I’ve
also got bar ends, so when I’m climbing up steep climbs, I can get more of an
aggressive position to power up them. – Wheels and tire choice. For my trail
bike, the tires are much more aggressive. They’ve definitely got more grip.
They do have added roll resistance, and they’re heavier. Similarly, the
wheels have got aluminium rims, and they are going to be
tougher, but they will be heavier. – When it comes to tires and wheels, I
want them to be as lightweight as possible. And for the tires, depending on
the course, depends on whether you go for the thicker and heavier protection tire,
or whether you might go for the more lightweight version. Also, depending on
the course, sometimes you have more sealant in, or if you can get away
with it, you have as little sealant as possible. Because with it being a rolling
weight, you want it to be as light as possible. For the grip, you normally
go for one that you can, kind of, get away with as much as possible in
technical sections. You want to be able to kind of ride fast in the technical
sections but then have as least grip as possible to climb with. Also,
carbon fiber rims, again lightweight. – Saddle height. On my trail bike, I have
a dropper seatpost, so I can have my saddle in that perfect position for
pedaling but also have the advantage of the dropper post to get it out of the way
for the technical downhill sections. – Whereas in cross-country, we just get on
with it. You put your seat in the perfect position for pedaling, and then
you learn to move around the bike, so technical sections, you just have
to deal with it. Carbon seatpost, again, it’s down to being lightweight.
When you add in a dropper post, you add in the extra button, extra hose,
just adds weight which you don’t need. – I’ve got a 130-mil travel on the
rear and 140-mil travel up front, so a relatively large amount of
suspension to play around with. So I like to set my bike up with 30% sag
on the rear and about 20% on the front. I also like to add volume spacers, so that
I’ve got that first part of travel that’s really nice and compliant on the small
bumps, but then I ramp up nice and hard for when I’m hitting those big, aggressive
drop-offs and for steep downhill riding. – I only have 100-mil travel on my bike.
Whilst it’s really important that it’s compliant, and that it soaks up all of
the bumps and all of the rough stuff, I also need it to be really efficient for
pedaling. I want all the power that I, kind of, create to make me go forwards and
not lose any through bobbing through the suspension. I’ve also got remote
lockout, which I actually use, like, loads when I’m racing. It
means that if you’re at the start, and you’re sprinting down the
start straight, or the finish straight, you can have your bike pretty
much rigid. So that straight line power, everything’s going forwards, rather
than losing it through the suspension. – Okay, so there’s some of the things
you need to have a look at if you’re trying to set your bike up for
cross-country. If you want to see more videos from GMBN, you can click up
there for our feature on stem length. – Or, if you want to check my bike out in
more detail, you can check out my pro bike if you click here. – Click in the middle to subscribe to
GMBN. We get a free video every day of the year. And also, leave us a
comment if you think we’ve missed any cross-country bike setup tips.