Super Tidy Handlebars, Noisy Bike Chains & Tyre Seating | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech


(mechanism clanking) – Welcome to the GCN Tech Clinic, where I try and solve your
bike related problems, that you leave down there in the comment section
below or alternatively on all forms of social
media, using the hashtag #ASKGCNTECH So if you’ve got something
troubling you, let me know. Right, with no further ado, let’s crack on with the
first question this week that comes in from Blaz Meznar who says, ” Hi
wondering if there is any way to make mechanical cables on the cockpit look as neat as electrical. It just looks so good when
the cockpit is so clean.” – Right Blaz. Couple of things you could do here. Firstly, before you go ahead
and put your handlebar tape on over the bars, actually root those cables
to the both brake and gears, as closely as possible together. So like parallel, and tape them on with
some insulation tape. Now some people like to wrap it fully on. I just like to give a couple of bits, and just hold it firmly in place. That’s going to give a
neat appearance, really, of the cables underneath
the actual handlebar tape. But, you say about the front, it looks a little bit cluttered, I mean really that’s just
something you’ve got to accept, that you’ve got four cables there. You could I guess, heat shrink
the cables together as well, and then perform the
cuts of the heat shrink at the last possible minute
so they try and remain as one big bit, instead
of two smaller bits. But ultimately, you’re not going
to get that super clean look that you really desire, I don’t think, unless of course you go
to SRAM and eTAP setup, which is wireless, or course. Right, now we’ve got Chris Seilern who says,
“Hi John great videos. Thanks, I’m a real fan. – No problem Chris. I have an Ultegra Di2
with 52-36 chainrings and an 11-30 cassette. Unfortunately, it is always
slightly noisy in the big ring and normally quiet in the small ring. I have tried re-indexing, (myself and at the LBS)
oiling , cleaning etc. and I’ve even checked
the chain and cassette, and they look okay. The front mech does
not seem to be touching the chain either. Any ideas as to what it might be? Love this question. Chris, I’m about to call you Craig then, but right name. So, I’ve noticed this actually
on the latest generations of Ultegra and on also Dura-Ace. I’ve not tried it on the 105 yet. And I’ve also asked some pro mechanics if they’ve noticed it being
ever so slightly noisier than the previous generations. And they agreed, or at least the ones I’ve asked. Where as loads of people out there, don’t actually notice a
difference, whatsoever. But I’ve got a feeling, it could well be, because on the shadow style derailuer. what you’ve got now, there’s an increased
amount of spring tension, in the cage of the rear neck, and that, basically, seems
to be causing that noise. I’m pretty sure that’s what it is. It just seems to be something
with the jockey lug, pulling those jockey
wheels, and the chain. I think that’s where that
noise is coming from, rather than the actual chain set. I want people to get involved, actually, in the comments section down below. Have they noticed the
latest generation of Shimano is slightly, slightly nosier, it’s not an annoying noise or anything, it’s just a kind of a chain noise. Is it noisier than the previous one? Get involved in the
comments section down below, because I’m pretty sure that’s what it is, just that increased tension of the spring. Next up is Vishwa Dev who says, ”
Every time I take a tire out of the rim to change the inner tube and put it back, I find a slight wobble in the tire when I give it a spin. Is it because I’ve not put
the tire back on properly, or is there a technique
in which I can make sure the tire is perfectly
inline without the wobble? I guess it’s not properly
seated into the rim. Right, Vishwa. There isn’t really a technique for this. This sort of problem, I
guess you could call it, has only been around I can
bet the last five years. Sense to be, basically, that the tires and the rim interfaces
have become more suitable for tubeless tires. I reckon you’ve probably got a tubeless compatible rim, there, that allows the tires to pop into place. So, when you’re putting
that inner tube in, make sure it’s fully inside of the tire and inflate the inner tube inside of that, and make sure that your inner tube itself, is not bulging out between the side wall, and the actual bead of the tire and the inner side wall of the rim. What I like to do, is
not go ahead and inflate, and just hope it pops into place, but actually try and massage
or massage the tire into place, and get that to actually find
its way on the rim correctly, rather then allowing you to pump away and… I never liked the big
popping or clicking noise. that the tire makes, but there’s no real fail
safe technique I guess, you could use something.. Some people out there use
like washing up liquid on the wheel, on the inside of the rim, just to try to help it slide into place, But then you have to wash it off, so that that way of course you can break, your breaks aren’t going to work, because you’ve got soap on them. Also you can use talcum powder, that’s something which
I put inside sometimes, to try to help them slide into place, but give that a go and hopefully, you won’t find it so
troublesome going forward. Next up we’ve got Nur Muhhamad Hanif who says, ” Hey John, I’m planning on converting
my 2x road bike to a 1x. The only deraileur with a
clutch mechanism Shimano offer for road bikes, is the Ultegra RX. I was wondering if the
mountain bike rear deraileurs are cross compatible with
the road gruppo parts. They all have a similar Shadow design, and have a clutch mechanism, but for less than half of the
price of the Ultegra RX rd. I was wondering if I could
get the same function, and maybe the performance
from the Deore instead.” – Alright love this one,
yep possible to do it. Probab;y give it away really. Secrets that some people
don’t want me to give away but yeah , you get yourself a Wolf Tooth Tanpan – Wolf Tooth Components Which goes on to the deraaileur body, so when your cable goes
in your anti cable, instead of it going all the way, you put this little roller, it’s a wheel there instead, and what that does is
it adjusts the amount of cable that your lever is giving, and it means it works with
amazing point rear back. (smack) Thank me later. Next up is, Popula who’s says, ” Hi
GCN, my sora R3000 groupset can shift up the cassette by three gears but only on the small cogs (11-16) on the bigger cogs it
will only shift two gears. The third click can be forced
by pulling the cable by hand, Tightening the cable
just ruins the indexing.” – Right, (smack) this ones sounds like it’s probably your limit screw. So it works down at the
higher end of the block, to the 11 to 16. So I
reckon you need to turn the H screw in a way. Because as your gank through the gears, the cable tension is becoming…. It’s very, very hard to explain this. The (murmur) gank screw is pulled through the cable
again and just tighten that up. (sighs) and then it indexes the gears. It may well work okay. I don’t see any problem why it wouldn’t. What’s happened previously, in the previous steps, is just trying to explain this
in the easiest way possible, is you are taking up
the slack in the cable and eventually to runs out, and you don’t have any more room for it. It is very very difficult to explain. So go on ahead, play with the H screw, and just adjust the cables, index it. What you need to consider
here too is actually, It sounds really, really daff because I know right you thinking self, but I want to be able to
change those three gears, but how often do you need
to do that on your bike? But I’m a real perfectionist
when it comes it, is something doesn’t work properly, I will faffer and I’ll not go to bed, I will waste so much time
trying to solve something. But you don’t really need to ever, be able to change those 3 gears at once. But do those steps I’ve mentioned, and I reckon it will be sorted for you. Or alternatively it could
well be your mech hanger, slightly out of line, and it means that once that cable , once the deraileur, works its way over, its just got more work to do , but with the same a amount of cable cord. Bikes the are not as
easy as everyone thinks. Next up we have got [email protected] @tankiematelow Sep 24 who says, “Can I replace my Tiagra
Fc=4700 Crankshaft with a 105 FC-R7000 without issues, Trek Checkpoint ALR BB86. 5. Thanks”=Yeah no problems at all mate, both of them are Shamano
and Hollow Tech 2, go ahead and do it, ikt will work fine. Next up is Al who says, ” Is it me
or are road disc brakes way more tedious to keep running nicely as opposite to mtb discs? Rotor rub , ticking after
heavy breaking… Why? Why? – Okay I suppose one of the reasons that, Maybe road bikes, disc
brakes give you a hard time , because that basically the
reservoir on the levers, on the shifters on a road bike, is a bit smaller then that on a mountain , bike traditionally, and what you are asking it
to do is the same operation . It’s kind of a scaled down version , of what the mountain bike setup is, but I think we need to
lay off disc brakes, they are not actually that
troublesome whatsoever, I just think as technology and actual mechanics and the Building , off disc brakes on road
bike improved as goes on. They will be without that problem, Just like mountain bikes disc
brakes when they started, they had their problems and they’ve gone. And road bikes are they really
(murmur) problems solved? I can go on-and-on about that. But I think give them a
bit of an easier time out. The Neon Matt now and
ultimate one this week. TheNeonMatt says” I have some
wheels with a worn out braking surface in the garage , Is
it safe for me yo use them” – Nice question, not really
thought about this before. I wouldn’t advise it, the reason being, if your brakes are worn out ot means, that the structural
integrity of the whole wheel is not going to be as intended, so where the spokes are
pulling from the rims , from that area eyelets, they then can be under more stress, then normal leading to
a failure of collapse . And absolutely not something
I would ever advise. What you could do though is just buy yourself a cheap rear end wheel. That’s what I did many many years ago, just bought myself a really cheap basic , I think it was like e
a !0 speed Hubble mat, I just put turbo trainers tires
on that and just used those. And that was my dedicated turbo wheel, but don’t use something that
is basically broken already. – Right okay. Once and for all, anything 10 speed and up.
Road or mountain bike, There will be people saying,
Yes it dose, I have done it.” That’s absolutely fine , I’m sure it is, but some of us maybe slightly fussu. I don’t know I will
leave that one with you, but what you can get is Wolf Tooth Tanpan difficult one fpr me
to say for some reason. Again adjust it the actual
cable and get way with.. That really is about all I can suggest… Yes in the past people have done all sorts trying to root the cable
in a different path of the cable clamp and things
to try to get it to work. But I’ve been told those
WolfTooth things work pretty well. Right, like I said. If you’ve
got yourself a tech problem, leave it with me down there
in the comment section below. And I’ll do my best to answer
it in and upcoming episode. Remember as well to share
this video with your friends. Don’t forget to check out the GCN shop @shop.Globalcycling.com For more great videos
c;ick just down here. Aqnd I’ll be back soon
with another Tech Clinic.