Should You Go Tubeless On Your E-Bike?  | The Pros & Cons

Should You Go Tubeless On Your E-Bike? | The Pros & Cons

– Tubes or tubeless? Is a big question in the
E-bike world right now. Some people say that
tubeless is a faster setup and it offers no real
advantage over a tube setup. Well, I think it offers
a load of advantages. So today, I’m showing
you all those advantages and why you should be
converting to tubeless on your E-mountain bike. Tubeless, if you don’t know what that is, is removing the inner tube out your tire or replacing it with some tire sealant. But we’re not going to be showing you how to do that setup today. We’ve already done that and the link to that is in
the description down below. (rhythmic music) So the cost involved for
converting to tubeless, you’re going to need a pair of valves for your front and rear wheels. They’re going to be about 10
pounds for a set of those. You need some tubeless sealant, obviously enough to do again
the front and the rear wheels. And that costs around
10 to 20 pounds as well. And some rimtape. If your rim isn’t compatible already, you’re going to need to have
tubeless rimtape around there. Now there’s loads of options available from a lot of different manufacturers but a really good, cheap
alternative is Gorilla Tape. Now this is available in
a load of hardware stores so that is really good
cost effective option. And there are of course kits available that included all of these items and they’re all in one package. They’re going to be about
30 to 40 pounds as well. So loads of different options on there to get your wheels tubeless setup. And you’re going to need a
tubeless ready tyre as well ’cause if you put a
non-tubeless compatible tire it’s going to weep the tire carcass and you’re going to lose air all the time. (rhythmic music) The great thing about a tubeless setup when it comes to punctures is that it will literally
repair a puncture as you’re rolling down the trail. You’ve got the sealant
in there sloshing around and with a gyroscopic effect of the wheel it’s going to find that
puncture and seal it naturally. Versus when you got a tube setup, you’re going to get a puncture in there and the tire’s going to go down. Might because slowly I might get on fast. The simple fact is you
got to stop your ride, take your wheel out of your bike, take the tire off, get the new tube out, again sand it down, put the patch on, replacing the tire, and then replace the wheel in the bike, and then continue on down the road. It is a big, big process and it takes a lot, lot longer than those over tubeless setup. One of the worst punctures
you can encounter out on the trail is the dreaded snake bite
puncture on the tube setup. This can mean the end to a ride. This is where you’ve hit
something with a low tire pressure and the tire’s compressed and pinch your inner tube
between the tire and the rim. It’s got two big slits in. Now this can mean the end of a ride or a long push home, or put in a refreshed inner tube in there. Obviously, with a tubeless setup you haven’t even got a tube in there to get snake bitten in the first place. You can ride a lot low at tire pressures on a tubeless setup. You can get a lot more grip so you never in fear of
getting the dreaded snake bite. (rhythmic music) In the early days of tubeless setup it was a pretty messy and
time consuming effect. You had air leaking everywhere. You had tire sealant dripping out. It was pretty messy. But tire and tubeless technology
has moved on massively. You got decent sealant. The tire is locked on to the
rims really nice and tight. And you even got pumps that
can inflate a tubeless setup within a matter of seconds. It really is a sinch to setup
a tubeless tire these days. (rhythmic music) One of the biggest advantages
you’re going to see switching into tubeless is the weight saved in each
of your wheels on your bike. You’re taking the inner tube out, you’re going to save
quite a lot of weight. And obviously that’s rotating
weight in the wheels. Meaning that the wheels
will become more efficient and therefore you should
see a bit more range coming out your battery. Now let’s see the different
between the tube setup and the tubeless setup in terms of weight. So it’s time for a weigh in. First up we’re going to do a tube setup. So I’m going to stick the
wheel and tire onto the scales. Going to add a inner tube to mix as well, and see what that weighs in at. So this going to weigh
in at 2.19 kilograms. So next up is a tubeless weigh in. So I’m going to add the wheel
and the tire to the scales. Now I’m going to add a hundred
mil of sealant to the tire. Squirt that in. And then obviously add the
tubeless valve to the mix, too. And then we should see that weighing in considerably lighter. Right, so that’s weighing
in at 1.98 kilograms. The difference between the two setups is a massive 260 grams per wheel. So times that by two for
your front and rear wheels. You’re saving over half
a kilo of rotating weight from your wheels. So the actually amount of
weight you’re going to save from each wheel manufacturer
and tire manufacture is obviously going to differ. But it is going to be a
massive weight saving. (rhythmic music) So the feel of the tire out on the trail is going to differ from
tubeless to tubed as well. With a tubeless setup the tire
becomes a lot more supple. You haven’t gotten an
inner tube inside the tire, pushing the tire carcass out. You’re going to find that
you’re going to be able to run a lot low tire pressures as well in bad conditions. Meaning the tire’s got
got a bigger footprint, it’s going to enhance your grips, it’s going to give you
a lot better braking, and it’s going to give you a lot better bump sensitivity as well. There’s going to be a lot more
control with our tubeless setup. (rhythmic music) So there are some pros
and cons of tubeless, let’s take a look at
some of the advantages. First up, you’re going to
lessen the chance of a puncture. Meaning you got peace of mind
when you’re on those big roads in the middle of no where. Next up, is that lighter overall package. Meaning your E-bike is going
to be even more efficient. And lastly, you can run
lower tire pressures to increase the grip out in that trail and not worry about
getting an impact puncture. And the downside to tubeless Well, there a few, there’s not that many. But initially that first setup cost can be quite an expense. You need to add into the equation. Tubeless ready tires, sealant. You’re going to need valves
and possibly rimtape too. All of that, collectively,
can be quite a cost. But that cost can be outweighed by the cost of puncture
repair kits and inner tubes over the years a puncture free
ride that you’re going to get. And lastly, the downside to tubeless is that it requires maintenance. Meaning that you got to go
into that tubeless setup to top up and check your
tubeless tire sealant every few months to make
sure it hasn’t dried out. Because if you have got
dry tire sealant in there, isn’t going to stop you
from getting punctures. So there you go. Should you upgrade to tubeless? Let’s us know down in the
comments box down below whether you run tubes or you run tubeless on your E-bike. But if you want to stick around and check out another good video. Check out Trail Side Hacks, that’s one’s playin’ down here. Give us thumbs up if you’ve enjoyed it and don’t forget to smash a globe in the middle of the screen
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