Ollie’s Everesting Challenge Bike | Canyon Ultimate CF SLX


(booming) – In this video I’m
going to go through the bike and kit I used to Everest the Passo di Valparola in Alta Badia. Now there will be a full
video on the ride itself, so stayed tuned for that, especially if you’re a big fan of
watching others suffer in an undignified way
but, in the meantime, I thought it’d be great
to give you more insight as to the bike and kit that
I used, in more detail, in case you’re planning
an Everesting yourself or perhaps just if you’re
doing a really long ride with loads of climbing,
there should be some good advice here for you. (upbeat music) – My bike of choice for the Everesting was my absolutely beautiful
Canyon Ultimate CF SLX climbing bike, which I absolutely love. Now I also am lucky enough
to have a Trek Madone Disc at the moment as well, but
I chose the Canyon out of the two because, the Trek
Madone Disc is amazing to ride it’s really fast aero and
you know it’s got disc brakes but with that comes about
a kilo and a half of extra weight and for an
Everesting, a challenge all about going uphill as quick as
you can, I decided that the lighter Canyon was the way to go. Something else I love about the Canyon, is that I feel really
balanced on it and really composed and stable when descending, and that’s really important
because descending is a huge part of Everesting, you’ve got to come down every time you go up. Having said that, I sense that
people are gonna be screaming at the screen saying “Why didn’t
you use disc brakes then?” Well there’s an answer okay,
so disc brakes, I believe they offer a massive advantage
on steep descents, technical descents and in the wet. Now the Passo di Valparola
and part of the reason why I chose it is that it’s not
a technical descent, and it’s not especially steep, and
so, I can get away with running calipers and with
regards to it being wet, well had it been a wet
forecast day, I wouldn’t have attempted Everesting, I would have waited for a dry forecast. (upbeat music) Having opted for caliper
as I wanted to really light and stiff wheels, and fortunately,
our mates happily lent me a pair of these absolutely
beautiful Firecrest 202 Tubulars onto them, I glued a pair of 25 millimeter Continental Pro Limited
which I managed to blag, cause normally, they’re only
available to the pros but thankfully we have some
friends at Continental, and the advantage they
offer, is that they actually have a latex inner tube
inside them instead of a standard butyl tube which
saves roughly five watts of rolling resistance per tyre,
and the cool thing here is that that’s constant, it is
not like drag that increases as you go faster, even
when I’m crawling along at five kilometers an
hour, up a climb, it’s still giving me five watts back. These wheels are absolutely
beautiful to ride and they feel great on the climbs,
and well I feel like I needed all the help I could get especially when I was getting
tired towards the end, and yeah absolutely brilliant. But I’m sure many of you
are thinking, well riding tubular tyres poses a risk,
what if, you get a puncture, I don’t have a team car
helping me, give me a spare wheel so I had a backup plan, these, my trusty 404 NSW
Clinchers that I normally run when I’m riding this bike
the rest of the time, so I didn’t have these
carrying around on my back but, I actually left them at the
strategic base camp of Everest well the Hotel Fedora, which
was about a third of the way up the climb where we were
staying, and this was really useful logistically cause I
left loads of stuff there like, food and bottles and my
spare wheels so had I got a puncture, I would’ve carefully
ridden down to the base camp at the Hotel Fedora and
just swapped out my wheels, they’re a little bit heavier and you know, not as good for climbing
as the 202 but the 404 NSW I mean, is not to be sniffed
at as it’s still an absolutely amazing wheel, still feel great. The next thing we need
to talk about is gearing, which is really important
for an Everesting challenge and, I put a lot of thought into this, so normally I run a 52/36
chainset and an 11/28 cassette at the back and for normal
riding, around where I live in the South of England,
well on shorter hills it’s absolutely fine and sees me
through, but I was worried, so what I did, was I spoke
to a lot of experts who’d Everested previously and looked
at the climb and spoke to my coach Jacob Tipper and
we decided to go with a 34 tooth inner ring on the
front chain ring and also an 11/32 cassette, this is
something that Shimano doesn’t recommend though, having a
52 and a 34 is a big drop between the chain rings
and Shimano recons that you run the risk of dropping your
chain, now having done it I can testify, it does work,
it’s a bodge but it does work and it works fine but, the
shifting performance between a 52/34 and a 52/36 is
noticeably not as good, you better off sticking
to what Shimano recommends but I didn’t drop a chain
whilst I was doing the challenge and I haven’t dropped a
chain yet using this setup. At the back, I went for the
32 cassette now, that’s a 32 Ultegra cassette because
Shimano doesn’t do a 32 tooth Dura Ace cassette,
and the way that you can get that to work and I’ve
done it before, I did it when we rode at the
Angliru, was if you wind the B limit screw in on the Dura
Ace Derailleur you can get it to work with a 32 tooth
cassette, and again this is something that Shimano
doesn’t recommend, the Dura Ace rim is actually only
rated to 30 tooth cassette but it does work with a 32,
and you get the full range of gears as well, I’m absolute
delighted that I went for a 34/32, it was the greatest decision I’ve ever made in my entire life. For the first half of the
challenge, I didn’t really need the 32, the Valparolla
is not the steepest climb in the world, but as
fatigue started to set in, and I was absolutely
crawling, I was so glad I had that gear, and even
when I was crawling along I was able to sort of still
spin my legs at a decent cadence and not overload
my knees and get too tired, so my advice would be if
you’re planning on doing a ride with loads of climbing
more than you’ve done before or an Everesting then, go
for a gear that you think is easier than what you actually need. The next bit of kit I wanna
draw your attention to is my absolutely
beautiful Fizik Arione 00, now not only does it
look absolutely stunning, at the top of my bike, it’s
also really light saddle but that’s not the main
reason I picked it, the main reason I have this on my
bike is because I find it really really comfortable,
and saddle comfort can make or break any ride, but if you
gonna be riding an Everesting which, you know, took me 15,
16 hours then if you have a saddle that is uncomfortable
that could be the difference between completing it and
not completing it, but, I really get on with
this saddle, I love it. With regards to the cockpit,
I went for the Canyon integrated one piece aero bar
instead, the reason for this is that well it’s lightweight actually, which is a bonus, but also
I get on with it, I like the shape of it, I feel
comfortable on it and it’s nice and narrow, it’s about
41 centimeters width, which keeps you a bit more aero and I don’t have the widest
shoulders so it suits me well, but also aerodynamics still
matters on an Everesting, because every time you
go downhill, it matters you going, you know really
fast, but also on the Valparolla, the first half
of that climb averages just four and a half
percent and at that sort of gradient, the speed I
was going which is over 16 kilometers an hour, you
know that aerodynamics is still a massively important
factor in propelling you forward so anything that can be done
to tidy up the front end of the bike, is gonna
make a big difference, that’s why I went for it, and
also to tidy up the front end I’ve got this nice
mount here for my Wahoo, and I’ve got my Wahoo Bolt computer. Its a nice lightweight unit
that, the most impressive thing about this, was how
long the battery lasted, so I managed to get 16 hours
of battery out of this, which I mean, that was a
full on rundown test I did during the Everesting, and
I did turn off some features to get that though so I
turned off the backlight I turned off the LEDs
and I also turned off Strava Live segments, didn’t need those, but yeah 16 hours, really
impressed with that. When you doing a long endurance
event, pacing is absolutely crucial so for me, the best
pacing tool that you can have is a power meter, so to
help me with that I fitted a Quarq D0 to the Canyon,
and I had a pacing strategy during the Everesting which
was to try and average 240 to 250 watts on each ascend. This worked well for the
first half of the event, and then fatigue set in
and, you know, I was sort of crawling, just managing what I could. I’m just completely empty, I’m crawling. Still worked well as a
motivational tool to try and hit a particular number and
just keep going and turning the pedals over and keep
going, so it’s still really useful for that, I just
think, you know I was perhaps a little bit over-ambitious
with my initial pacing but, in defense, it’s very
hard to train and prepare and predict how you’re gonna respond (crowd cheering) in an event
that’s 15, 16 hours long. The big take ‘o’ message
that I wanna ram home is to prioritize comfort, when
you’re doing a really long endurance challenge, it
might’ve been the hardest ride of your life, my Everesting certainly was. And you’re feeling even
more tired than Rocky at the end of a training montage
than anything that you have that just makes your life
a little bit more enjoyable and a little bit more comfortable, just, you just really appreciate
it, but were now gonna measure the bike and
give you the vitals, so saddle height or seatpost
length, I have that set on my bike at 77 centimeters from bottom bracket center to middle of the saddle top, the stem here that’s a 110
in the integrated cockpit, a 110 millimeters and
weigh the bike as well, so lets see how its doing,
it should be pretty light. So the bikes weighing in a full build with pedals and a power meter, 6.8 kilos. One final piece of advice
which might sound obvious but I’m gonna say it anyway
is just thoroughly service, check your bike, test
everything out and check that it’s in fully working order,
if you’ve got the Eye too charge it, if you brake blocks
needs changing, change them you know, I was training
months and months for this challenge and I wasn’t gonna
let an avoidable mechanical scupper it, so yeah, if
you’ve got a big ride planned just check everything’s okay. I hope you found this video
informative and useful and if you have any questions
about my bike, kit or setup that I use for Everesting, then just bang them down in
the comments section below and I’ll do my best to answer
as many of them as possible. And if you’re looking for
another video to watch, then why not check out,
the present challenge where I rode this same
frame up the Angliru in Spain. I went very slowly,
to watch it click on my name top tube vanity sticker here.