Integrated Headset (& Bearing) Replacement – Mountain or Road Bike

Integrated Headset (& Bearing) Replacement – Mountain or Road Bike


Mountain bike integrated headset and bearing
replacement We’ll start by using a two millimeter allen
wrench to detach the remote speed lockout cable from the SR Suntour forks
I’ll fix it to the top tube temporarily The cloth will protect the carbon top tube
from any scratches Removing the front wheel reduces the fork’s
weight and makes removing and handling it easier
Disc brake caliper removal A four millimeter allen wrench to loosen off
the stem bolts A five millimeter allen wrench to remove the
top cap Remember that this bolt holds the fork and
headset assemblage together You should hold the fork to prevent it falling
to the floor That won’t happen here since the headset’s
top seal fits very snugly around the fork There is a five millimeter spacer installed
under this top cap Changing this current headset to a new model
will allow me to do away with the spacer Sliding the stem with the handlebars off the
steerer Removing the four one millimeter spacers
I’ll slide the fork down a little then pop it back up
This makes grabbing and then removing the top seal and washers easier
You’ll see the lower and upper bearings have come loose from their integrated seats
on the head tube With nothing to hold the fork I can now slide
it out Removing the top sealed bearing
The bottom sealed bearing came out on the fork and will slide straight off
Now let’s have a look at the new headset I’ll remove the star nut and store it away. It won’t be needed
I’ll lay out all the headset components in the order each will be installed
Prising the crown race away from the fork crown Installing the new crown race to start things
off but if you are just replacing the bearings you won’t need to do this of course
The crown race lower bearing is designed to exactly fit to the crown race
A thin film of grease to eliminate any chance of squeaking
Some mechanics generously grease the bearing basically the whole area to completely seal
out the water and dirt This surface seats directly into the headtube
This is the top bearing seat The bottom is exactly the same
A light smear of grease inside the headtube The pre-load or wedge washer
The micro-adjust washer followed by the top seal The top-cap should be tight enough to hold
everything together Enough so that the spacers don’t move when
using a firm grip you attempt to turn them Lining the front wheel up to be parallel to
the stem is definitely an art Once the wheel is straight I can tighten the
stem bolts finger tight before using the torque wrench
You need a torque wrench if you are going to work on your bike
Here’s some advice All of these or a similar version are available
on Amazon This one is a top seller and I used it for
8 years It’s missing the rubber hand grip but it
still works well The gauge is hard to read though
Makes it hard to dial in pinpoint accurate torque settings
You can’t lock the setting either meaning the handle can turn
Electric torque wrenches are ok but go through batteries quickly and are relatively expensive
This type is the best I’ve found The longer handle provides good leverage and
accurate measurement Recommended torque here is eight to nine newton
meters Eight is fine Zeroing in literally on eight newtons
Release the lock back into position and you’re in business
It’s best to tighten each side in turn bit by bit
Once the wrench clicks in at the specified torque do the other side
Tightening that side slightly loosens the opposite side
Once both sides click easily you have reached tolerance If you found this video useful hit up the
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