How to Install Tubeless Tires

How to Install Tubeless Tires


In this video we’ll walk through how to install
tubeless tires. Hello, Calvin Jones here, Park Tool company. Tubeless tires have become quite popular, especially
in mountain biking, cyclocross, and fat tire biking. They give good traction because they can be
run at low air pressure without the risk of pinching and flatting an inner tube. Additionally, the sealant inside can provide protection
from punctures, giving a more maintenance-free ride. If you’re new to tubeless, we highly recommend
checking out this repair help article on tubeless standards and component compatibility, and if you’re looking to convert your wheels from inner tube to tubeless, see one of these videos. Regardless of what type of wheel you’re working on,
the installation process is the same. Let’s get started. Typical tools and supplies may include
tire levers, air compressor and inflator head
(but in some cases a floor pump will work), tire sealant and measuring cup,
rags to remove old sealant, soapy water to lubricate tight beads, and for the alternate method, you would also need a valve core remover and a syringe. Deflate the tire fully, squeezing to remove
any pressure on the bead. Assume there is tire sealant inside & keep
the valve away from the downward position. Push both sides of the tire toward the center of the rim
to loosen the bead from against the rim sidewall. Use tire levers to remove the tire from the
rim. Watch for fluid at the bottom of the tire carcass, and
dispose of it as per manufacturer’s recommendations. Wipe clean the bead seat area of the rim. If you’re going to re-use the tire, clean
up the up the bead as well. Check that the valve is secure in the rim. Check for any arrows printed on the sidewalls
that indicate direction of wheel rotation. Align the tire with the rim accordingly. It can also be useful to place the recommended
tire pressure label on the tire next to the valve. Install one bead on the rim. Install the second bead beginning at the valve. Leave a portion of the bead uninstalled. At this point in the process,
there’s an alternate installation method, but it requires a removable valve core which
will have these small wrench flats at the tip, a syringe, and an air compressor. If you have have these things, skip to the
time shown above. Otherwise, let’s continue. Check the label for the recommended amount
of tire sealant, and pour in the fluid. Slowly rotate the wheel to keep the fluid at the bottom
while your unmounted bead comes to the top. Finish installing the bead. If it’s a tight bead, it can help to use some
soapy water to lubricate the tire bead. Use a tire lever when necessary. Inflate the tire to at least the maximum pressure
on the label. If the tire bead and rim are well designed
and compatible, this can work with a floor pump. Check that the bead is correctly seated. In some cases the bead will be too low. Deflate the tire, break the bead at the low
point, and lubricate with soapy water. Reinflate. Spin the wheel to move sealant around inside
the tire. Hold the wheel horizontally and oscillate
the wheel to help spread the fluid to the bead. Flip the wheel and repeat. Now we wait. The sealant needs to fully set and block any leaks. On UST systems, this may happen immediately. for other systems, it can take hours,
and in some cases, days. This is because the sealant has to
find and plug the leaks. Looking at this used tire, we can notice the
extra build up. This is where it was leaking, causing the
sealant to build up where it was seeping. Every few hours, maintain air pressure,
and give it a spin. Or, install the wheel and go for a ride. When the air is holding consistently, set
the tire to the rider’s desired pressure. This wheel is ready to use. Now let’s walk through the alternate installation
process for those with a removable valve core, a syringe and a compressor. First, check the label for the recommended
amount of tire sealant, and fill the syringe. Instead of leaving a gap at the second bead,
we’ll mount both tire beads before adding any sealant. Check that the valve is secure in the rim, and then remove the core using a valve core remover such as the Park Tool VC-1. Inflate the tire fully with an air compressor,
allowing the bead to fully seat. If the tire bead and rim are well designed
and compatible, such as with the UST system, this can work with a floor pump. Pull off the air head. For the most part, the bead will still stay
seated to the rim. Inject the fluid. Install the valve core and secure. Reinflate the tire, and finish the rest
of the process as shown before. Here are some final tips on use of tubeless
tires: Maintain your pressure to at least minimum levels. In the tubeless tire system, some bleeding of pressure
is considered normal and acceptable. This is why checking your air pressure is
often important. Even though the big advantage of tubeless
systems is riding at lower air pressures, there are instances where the system can fail. The worst load is the lateral impact. Here, the impact may cause what is called
a “burp”. The tire bead, just for an instant, opens,
allowing some air to escape. The pressure is now lower, and for every burp, you are more and more susceptible
to getting a complete flat tire. So check and maintain your pressure.
Keep track of what pressure has been working for you. And that seals the deal on tubeless tires. Again, if you want to convert your wheels
to tubeless, see this video, and for more information on standards,
compatibility and component selection, see this repair help
article at Park Tool.com. Thanks for watching, and be sure to subscribe
for the latest videos from Park Tool.