How To Check Over And Set Up A New Mountain Bike! | Mountain Bike Maintenance

– Exciting times, you’ve
got yourself a new bike. And whether you’ve bought it from a shop, or an online-direct company, here are a few checks
you need to do before you take out your pride and joy onto the trails for the first time. As you can see, my bike
needs a little bit of assembling first, just the
bars going into the stem, the seat post in, and the front wheel on. So I’ll do that first. So step one is just to put some grease inside that seat tube. This is an aluminium
bike and aluminium post, so grease is the way to do it. If you had a carbon fibre post or frame then use some of that carbon fibre grip. Put it inside the seat tube
rather than on the seat post, because it’s a little bit less messy. As it slides down and in rather than, sort of, scraping the
grease up the seat post. I’m gonna leave quite a bit showing, so I’m gonna use a bike stand to finish off building my bike. Just whilst you are assembling any parts on the bike make sure there
is grease in any threads. Luckily, there’s some in there already. So, literally, just need
to wind these bolts in. So for now, I’m just gonna instal the bars and give them a bit of torque on there, but I’m not gonna go too crazy, because once I’ve got everything in place I’m gonna take the bike off the stand to double-check the bar roll or my lever angles, that sort of thing. So, I’m just gonna tighten
up slightly, for now. I’m not worried about it too much. Okay, just to instal the front wheel. Now this bike has come
with the breaks reversed, so not American and Euro-style, so the rear brake is on the left. So in the UK we run them
the other way around. Luckily, that’s that dead-easy to do with these SRAM guide brakes. You literally flip them over, and stick them on the other side. Bikes always tend to come without pedals, so pick your pedals of
choice: flats or clips. And make sure you also put a bit of grease on those threads. So your new bike is in one piece. The first thing I’ll now do is read and then remove these warning
notes all over the bike. So the first one, this is the fork. Before the first ride
please check the suspension for pressure, which we’re
gonna do in a second, we’ll do the fork and shock pressure. There’s one down on the axle, so make sure you’ve got
that in and it’s vertical. Get rid of that as well. Coming in to the back of the bike, there’s one on that rear brake, basically telling you that they are self-adjusting brakes. So what you need to do,
when both the wheels are in and the discs are inside the callipers, just give those brakes a couple of pumps, and now you’re gonna
sort of push the pistons out to make sure they’re working properly the first time you ride the bike. Once you’ve pumped the brakes, you might need to then
resend to your calliper, we have done a whole video on that, but basically undo your bolts and then, I like to do it by sight, so I can see down the disc and I’m trying to equally space those pads, so that I can see a little gap, either side, between
the pads and that disc. If you’ve got a really nice
quiet garage or workshop, give it a spin and just listen out and you shouldn’t be able to hear that disc touch those brake-pads. The rear one is absolutely fine, so I’m just going to make sure those calliper bolts are nice and tight. Hopefully, when your bike was built, things have been checked already, but the one thing I really will make sure that is right, is the limit
screws on the rear mack, because it can do a lot of damage if they’re not set right. So, first part of that
is to make sure the mack is nice and tight into the hanger. And then go through and
actually shift your gears, to make sure the mack doesn’t move too far in either direction. So brand new chains come
with this really sticky lube from the factory on there. And that’s down to personal preference, a lot of people like that lube and they’ll leave it on there. Personally, I actually
degrease that brand-new chain because it’s really sticky, I don’t really like that, where I ride, all the mud sticks to that
and the sand and it’ll really wear that chain out. So, actually, I take the
degreaser to a brand-new chain, get rid of that sticky stuff, and then reapply it
with my favourite lube. Tyres are such a personal preference, saying that, often, new bikes don’t come with the tyres that you want on them. So now’s the time to switch
to your favourite tyres, and also, most new bikes
don’t come setup tubeless, most of them come with tubes. So, also, now converts
tubeless if you want to, that also gives you two spare tubes. We’ve got a full video on how to convert to tubeless if you don’t
know how to do that, follow the link in the
description down below. On a full-suspension
bike it’s really worth checking that all the pivot bearings are greased up from new, they really should be, but an easy way of doing that is just to remove one of those pivot bolts, to wind out and just have a quick look inside there, as you can see, that is
really nice and clean, and also you can see signs
of grease around there. So, great, I’ll put that
back in and just make sure it’s torqued up to the
correct torque settings, which this bolt actually
says on it 17 Newton metres. That moves me on nicely to actually giving the full bike a bolt check. So, you will have to undo
some of the bolts again, set up your bars and levers
and things like that, but you definitely want to give your bike a full bolt check before you take the bike off the stand and start sitting on it. Because if anything’s loose, like the seat-post, you can do some damage to it. So, if you’ve got a
torque-meter, then great, if not, just go around with
your normal allen keys, and just try to make sure
that everything’s tight. Okay, so we’re almost there. I’m just going to go around the frame and remove any little
sort of protection film that was on there to try and stop it from getting damaged
whilst it was in transport. Now, I’m going to take
the bike out the stand. Okay, so now we move in more of the realms of trying to get the bike
set up for you to ride. I’m just gonna get that
saddle height set right, so dropping my seat-post down and in, popping it up. Whilst I’m doing that, I’ve got an internally roof-tiered, drop-seat post here, so I’m just trying to
make sure that the cable is not getting pinched around anything, and I’m going to try to
set my saddle height. Alright, next step is
to try and set the sag on my suspension. Again, we’ve done a full video on this, if you don’t know how to do it. I’m looking for about
a 30% sag on the rear, and about 20, 25 on the front. And, also, bear in mind, that once you’ve sat in it initially, your bike will bed-in a little bit after a couple of rides, so everything will loosen up slightly, so it’s definitely worth
rechecking your sag after the first and probably a third ride. Right now I like to double-check that my ankles are tight
before I get on the bike, everything’s sorted and
now I’m going to hop on and now set up my bars and controls. It’s the first thing I do is actually set my bars so I’m going to roll them. I like it so the rise on these bars goes directly up, so it
looks about right to me. And make sure they’re centred in the stem. Torque goes back up. Make sure you do one bolt at a time. Or sort of alternate the two, so you don’t get one over-tight. There we go. Now, I’m going to double-check that my stem is nice and straight. The way I like to do that is actually look down the
back of the handlebars and try in line them up
with the crown of the fork. So I’m going to undo
that first and then just shimmy that stem around a little bit. That’s not far off actually, but just a touch that way. That looks good to me, so torque that back up. Next is the grips, these are Asymmetric Ergon One, so again I’m going to
try in get that angle so it’s most comfortable and then tighten that up. Do that on both sides, obviously, and make sure they’re
nice and torqued down to the bar so they don’t slide around. Next to the brake-levers so I’ll make sure they’re equally-spaced away
from my grip on each side. You can do that with a tape measure if you’d wish, I try in do that with
sort of using my fingers, space it out, it’s about right. Get the angle, so I try
in look for that angle, it’s kind of relatively high on the bar, but nice and comfortable
when I’m stood up. That looks about right to me. So then I’ll match my rear brake lever. But also I’ll do my reach, so I like to run my levers
quite close to the bar so, just need to turn this little dial here. Again, I’ve done five
clicks on the right lever, so I’ll need to do five on the left. Okay, just a couple more steps then you’re ready to ride. I will now look at my brake-hoses and shorten them if they need to. Same with your gear cables to make sure that’s all very nice and clean. I don’t have to on this bike fortunately, everything’s nice and tidy. And also try in protect your frame. Here you’ve got some
sort of clear stickers on there just to stop any cable rub. Also, you’ve got these
little things just to tie your cables together, make it look really nice and neat. Hopefully, you keep this
frame looking nice and new. One final thing to think about is actually making a chain-stay
protector for that bike. I’ve already got one built-in on this Canyon Spectral, but a full wrap would just protect the bottom of it, as well. I’m a little bit paranoid as well, so I would now give it
one last full bolt check to make sure everything’s nice and tight before I ride it on the trail. If you want to see more videos from JNBN, click on the logo to subscribe. Click down there for how to make a homemade chain-stay protector and over there to make a
homemade, front mudguard. Give a thumbs up if you like this video.