How To Change The Bearings In Your Mountain Bikes Front Wheel | MTB Maintenance

How To Change The Bearings In Your Mountain Bikes Front Wheel | MTB Maintenance


– Changing the sealed
bearings in your front hub, it’s actually a short punchy job and shouldn’t take very long to do, let’s go through it. Bike-specific pulleys and presses, well they’re absolutely lovely to use. But in solidarity with our home mechanics I’m not going to be using them today. First things first, let’s
get these bearings out. We begin by removing our end caps. The way to do this often
varies from model to model. Using just a hammer punch and something to press the wheel against, an old tubeless roll is
ideal, we get the axle out. As we gently tap the
axles through the hub, sometimes a bearing will come
out as you drive the axle out but not always, either
way it’s not a problem. Most hubs are unidirectional
but if in doubt, look it up in your manual. It’s important not to use
a big heavy metal hammer as you can ovalize the
axle, so be careful now. Use something with a plastic
end at the very least and be patient. Easy does it. Once that’s out of the first bearing, look into your hub and inspect it. What you don’t want to do is punch the center of your
second bearing straight out. If it’s an angular bearing, it will often have little indentations in the hub for special toolage. When using a punch on this second bearing, try and get the punch as close
to the outer race as possible and then tap it out. Tap is the important word. You want to send it out
as square as possible, so you’re not in danger of
warping the bearing interface. Using an old piece of rag, I’m just going to clean up and inspect that bearing interface. Don’t go throwing these old
bearings straight into the bin. Now when we’re installing these new ones, obviously a press is
always going to be best, because it would distribute
the force evenly, and press them in slowly. However, in substitute of a proper press, we can use the old bearings
to push the new ones in. And we can apply the
force to this bearing. If you directly apply
force to the new bearing, it will be knackered, so please don’t. Now, this is where some hubs
kind of diverge a little bit. With the systems such as this FSA one, you can actually seat the
bearing onto the axle. You put the other bearing into the hub and you just push this
through and it’s all done. Now they’re all going to be very similar in terms of what the hub demands. Just in a slightly different order. You can work it out
just using common sense. As I mentioned earlier, you can make installation far easier by using the old bearing to float it in. So with one bearing pressed into the hub and another fitted to the axle and with all the relevant
interfaces greased, i.e. just on the axle there and on the inside for
this bearing interface, you just gently push it through. You want to make sure
you’re not going to cause any reason for that bearing to drive out. And then you just tap in very
gently with a soft hammer. This is where checking the alignment and making sure it’s lubricated comes in. What you don’t want to happen is because it’s misaligned, it to drive out there’s
bearing whatsoever. So visually inspect it to make
sure that it is still seated. The penultimate step is
reinstalling your end caps. (mellow music) Now, the final, but
arguably most important step is to admire your handiwork
and spin those bearings. So I hope that’s been informative for you. Now, if you’d like GMBN Tech and the Global Mountain Bike Network, be sure to follow us on
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