How to build an electric bike, powerful and with a great autonomy – explaination and demonstration

How to build an electric bike, powerful and with a great autonomy – explaination and demonstration


Hi In this video I’ll show you
my electric bike assembling. Present the parts
I had to buy to build it. the tools. The details that you need to be careful with
and this will be followed by a demonstration. My electric bike that I built here has a
hand throttle that allows me to move forward without pedalling. It has a cruising speed of about 40 km/h (25mph) The autonomy is still undetermined. But considering the
first tests, I expect to travel more than 30 km (18 miles) with one charge You might find in the video details
a more accurate autonomy. Now we can make the presentation
of the parts that I bought. I’ll need a bike
The wheel is already removed. I will use tires
resistant to punctures. to avoid having to disassemble the engine
too often when punctures. I bought a wheel
that already is radiated with a part of the engine. The engine,
which is still packed. I’ll also need the controller that will allow to the engine to work,
it’ll send the impulsions to the motor. A kit to strengthen the part at the axis of the wheel
to avoid that the hub rotates by itself. It was recommended by the seller So I asked him to add it to my order. So I also bought brakes
that detect the braking to allow the engine to recover energy
and especially to stop pushing when I brake. So since I have much better brake here I’ll try to make something just to get
the switch that is in the brake. Then a hand accelerator
which will enable me to control the motor directly
from the handle. Otherwise I would have to pedal. Of course a small battery
and the battery charger. I also bought replacement gears
because apparently the gears are quite fragile. I also bought a brake disc
because Shimano uses proprietary mounting this one uses the classic mounting
although it is a shimano. But in reality on the original wheel
my bike had this disc which as you can see has
a riveted mechanism. So I can not reuse it
with my electric motor which uses a conventional fastening system. You will also need, if like me you have an MTB,
a carrier to place the battery. And finally you’ll
need a “free-wheel”. (I’m not sure of the term in French,
maybe “roue libre” but I do not think this is the right term.) Actually how it looks:
This is the rear cassette but it includes the free-wheel,
the free wheel mechanism is directly integrated. Why you need to buy it? Because usually in the original wheel
they are only cassettes which are like this. So they are stacked
but they do not have a free-wheel mechanism. In fact, the free-wheel
lies directly in the wheel hubs and the engine itself does not have this mechanism
that’s why you have to buy this piece instead. Then you also need to purchase this item,
it is a spacer which allows to increase the length of the hub or something like that. Because as it is a 9 speed
apparently it is too large without this piece. I present the unpacked engine. As you can see there is no free-wheel mechanism and on this side
it is a system for conventional disc At the tools you’ll need a key
which fixes the “free wheel”. Here I have one in my tool case
but I bought a second with the engine because apparently the other one might
be too small, so we’ll see if it’s useful. A chain whip can still be useful if you also
want to remove the cassette. Where (not integrated into)
the “free wheel” is not included. To remove this you do not need a chain whip
but to remove the original cassette you do. As you can see
we need this tool to tighten the cassette
since it must be placed so and you must use a wrench to tighten. If you already have this kind of tool
like me, but for the cassette without the free wheel. You see that you cannot use it
So think about buying this tool. Here the wheel mounted on the bike. The cassette
there is no real problem. Here you can see the
spacer to keep away the last part of the cassette. But at the side of the disk
I had to struggle a bit. This was already one of my fears when I purchased. As you can see the bracket
is very close to the motor. And I had to install washers actually
to away the disc from the motor so that the caliper can fit. So it’s really very very very narrow
as you can see the support here the caliper is very close to the disc. So I do not know if it’s really usable
like that but in any case it works. I twist the disc a bit
because it is very narrow. Here is the bike in its almost final version. Here you can see the reinforcement to the axis
of the rear wheel. Well unfortunately I have forgotten you a little
I’ve already packed all cables in “duct tape”. But the connections are relatively simple,
most of the time there is only one connector that fits so that’s good. It is easy to connect. On the handlebar, on the right
you have the accelerator, a switch to limit the speed
and the cruise control. To the left is the start button system. At first I had not installed it because there is a small
lamp on the drawing so I thought it was for the headlights and therefore the engine didn’t work. And a button to probably make a contact
so I’ll probably use it for a horn. Moreover there is a drawing of a horn. Voila! Now we’ll test it! [Music]