How Do You Keep Your Bike’s Chain & Cassette Rust Free? | GCN Tech Clinic


(dramatic whooshing noises) – Welcome back to another
episode of the GCN Tech Clinic. (quiet calming background music) If you’ve got yourself
a bike related problem, no matter what it is, make
sure you leave it down there in the comment section and
I’ll do my best to answer it in an upcoming episode. Alternatively, leave me
those questions on all forms of social media using
the hashtag askgcntech. With no further ado, it’s time to crack on with the first question this
week, and it comes in from… In fact I’m just going
to read out your surname, because I definitely
can’t say your first name. Comes in from Wu. “Hi, John, I really like your show. I’ve been following your
advice by washing my bike with soapy water each week. After washing my bike, I
just let the bike air dry. Recently, I noticed that
both my cassette and chain started to rust. Did I wash it too often? Or is it because I let
my bike dry in the air? Also, will soapy water
contaminate the disc brake pads?” Right, it is good
practice to wash your bike which is absolutely great,
I’m glad you’re doing it. Something else you could well do, unless of course, it’s really hot, a lot of water droplets tend
to hang around on the bike, so get yourself an old towel, certainly not one you’re going to use after you have a shower, just run the chain through that
and also the sprockets, too, and try to wipe away as much
excess water as possible. If you’ve got some compressed
air, so an air hose, blast that in there, too. That does a fantastic job of getting rid of any water particles, as does products such as
Bike Protect from Muck Off or some of the products from WD-40, some of the bike specific ones, you can spray that on the
drive train afterwords, and it just makes sure
that water goes away and it doesn’t start to
give you that surface rust, which isn’t that nice. As for soapy water
contaminating disc brake pads, no, as long as you rinse it off with some clean water afterwords. Hopefully you’re going to
be rust free from now on. Next up is Samuel Li who
says, “Hi GCN Tech, I got a 10 speed ultegra 6770 di2 group set and I want to upgrade it to 11 speed. Is it fine to just upgrade
the rear derailleur, cassette, junction box, chain,
and leave the rest as it is? Some people say there’s going to be a firmware compatibility
issue, but others say it will work fine, so
I’m just a bit confused.” Right, Samuel, you’re going to need the front derailleur too. The reason being, an 11
speed rear derailleur and 10 speed front derailleur, they don’t talk the same language, and that’s my technical speak, really, for them just not working together. They used to work at first, but once you plug in and
upgrade your firmware or update it to make sure you’ve got the latest operating
gears, if that makes sense, they just will not work. It’s very likely that
the new rear derailleur is going to come
prepreprogramed to not work with an old front derailleur. So yeah, you are going to need
to get both of those mecs. We’ve got CafeConLech81 now. “Hello, John, I’ve been having some issues with my rear derailleur skipping. I took it to a bike shop mechanic and it came down to
needing to replace it.” That’s always a sad day. “I have a Scram Red 22 rear
derailleur, the green edition, and would like to replace it with the same green edition model, but it seems impossible
to find it anywhere. Is there anyway to service
or rebuild the old one, or does it need to be replaced? If so, any suggestions where I can find it for a fair price?” All right, this is an
absolute drama, really, because you’ve got your heart
set on this limited edition green componentry, or green decos on it. It’s eventually worn out and it’s not going to match anything else. If you’ve got OCD like me,
this is not a good situation. You can probably rebuild
that rear derailleur, have a look on the Sram website, they’ve got a whole heap of spare parts that you can look around at, probably buy every single
component to rebuild it and have it working just like new. Alternatively, the more
time efficient process would be to go out and buy a new one, but it’s not going to match
all those green components, so you could then go to
a sticker or decal shop and try and get them to make something that you could put over
the white or red writing that could well be all
that new derailleur. Alternatively, take it to someone
who’s going to paint it on and then they could just
lacquer over the top there. There’s a few solutions
or suggestions for you. Right, next up is Carl Cook who says, “Hi, Jon, (obviously) I upgraded my chain to an 11-speed KMC in Gold.” Good man, Carl. “I also bought an ultrasonic cleaner with the intention to
keep all my cassettes and chains gleaming.” I’m starting to like you
a lot, actually, Carl. “With the KMC chain, do I
really need a fresh quick link every time I want to
remove it to clean it? Or am I missing something?” Right, Carl, first up, good job that you’re
taking care of that bling. I’ve got some really good news for you, because some of those KMC quick links, they are classed as a one use bit of kit, but even better news, or
really the news for you, let’s face it, is that
some of them are reusable. So have a look on the KMC website and you’ll be able to find one which is exactly what
you need for your needs. I don’t know the model of that 10 speed or 11 speed chain you’ve got, 11 speed, I did have to just check. Have a look on there, you may even be able to get
a different colored one, too, to really make it stand
out and look really cool. I think it’s absolutely
great that you’re doing what I love to do, and that’s taking off the chain and give it a proper deep clean. You can just get it way more clean by taking it off the bike,
than if you leave it in place. Right, we’ve got Olivier Hiroz next. “Hi, Jon, almighty bike wizard.” I could do with a beard and a hat. No, I couldn’t. “I cannot find a real definitive
answer to this question. Are the Shimano SPD-SL cleats compatible with the Vector 3 power meter by Garmin? Thanks a lot in advance
for your help, Ollie.” Now, Ollie, no, those
Shimano SPD-SL cleats are a different size and
a slightly different shape to the Look Keo ones which are compatible with those Garmin Vector Pedals, so that’s exactly what
you’re going to have to use. Don’t try and use anything else and try and bodge your way around it or anything like that. When it comes to having a pedal
interface with your cleat, you want it to be absolutely spot on. You don’t want to risk
pulling out of those pedals when you’re dropping down
those wattage bazookas. Next up is violinfreax. I have to ask, where do you
get your usernames from? Some of them are really normal. Violinfreax, I don’t know. Anyway, right, “Hi Jon, love the show, I have the opportunity
to get an almost new Shimano 6800 Ultegra Group set, the shifters, front and rear derailleurs, for a quite good price. Now, I currently have a Shimano
6600 Group set on the bike, the crank set is a 6700 one. Can I keep the crank set or will I also have to buy a 6800 one? Thanks in advance.” Keep that crank set. Don’t spend any money just yet. You will be able to have
absolutely fine working gears. They’re not going to be
quite as crisp as if you had a 6800 chain set on there because the spacing of the chain
links have ever so slightly moved over the years, as we’ve gone from 10 to
11 speed and everything, but I’ve used chain set from
three or four generations ago with the latest generation of group set, so derailleurs, and it’s
worked absolutely fine. Like I said, you’re not going to get the spot on gear shifting,
but it’s going to be okay. Good news. Right, we’ve got ConceptDLX now. “I’ve just got a new Focus
Izalco Max and I’m not able to prevent the aero
seat post from creaking. No matter how much carbon paste I use, it does not want to stop. Do you have any advice for me?” Yeah, firstly make sure that it is the actual
seat post that’s creaking. It may not be actually creaking down there inside of the frame, unless of course you’ve
held onto that seat post and you’ve managed to
get it to creak while trying to move it around. I would check firstly that
the saddle to seat clamp or seat cradle on the
top of the seat post, that that is absolutely tight, too, so it’s torqued up correctly. And also maybe, if you’ve got
carbon rails on that saddle, use some carbon paste there, too. Alternatively, use some copper paste or some anti-C something like that. Make sure that all the bolts are greased and lubed correctly, and like I say, they are torqued up, including that seat clamp bolt there, too. You say you’ve used a lot of carbon paste, make sure that it’s down far enough inside of the frame, too. So maybe you’ve going to have to put some on a tool of some sort,
maybe a long screw driver and just make sure it’s
around the circumference of that seat post, too. Because sometimes when
you push a seat post in, you just see it come back up the seat post and it doesn’t go down
inside of the actual seat tube itself. Kroent is next and Kroent says, “I own a Stevens from about
1999 with a Tiagra 4400. I love the handmade small aluminum frame and want to recreate the GCN’s cheap bike. How do I attach a 105 R5800 braze on front derailleur,
which clamp do I need? Kroent, my friend, you’re
going to need a braze on damp. So what is this exactly? It’s simply a clamp which goes around the outside of your seat tube, then you can bolt that braze on the front derailleur in place. As for the diameter, because they do come in different sizes, you are going to need to get yourself a pair of calipers or a micrometer, something like that, and
actually just measure the outside diameter of your seat tube to make sure that you get
a correct mounting bracket, but it’s going to be an
absolute piece of cake. And I look forward actually
to seeing that bike, once you’ve done the rebuild. Now we’ve got George Duffy. Now, that is the kind of username I like. It’s simple, it’s your name. Right, so George says, “I ride an older specialized Tarmac and
find I can get quite a bit of brake rub on the rear
wheel when climbing, or really putting the power down. Being around 85 kilo and
on the stronger side, I expect a bit of flex in my wheels, but the other day, when cleaning my bike, I noticed that the paint
is getting worn on my frame in where the rear stays are
meeting the bottom bracket so the wheels are rubbing there, too. It’s made me wonder, is it the wheel, or is it the frame flexing? How can I figure out what the culprit is?” Right, George, it could be
either that are flexing. It could be that your wheels
have had a bit of tension drop from the spokes, maybe they just need tightening up a little bit to try and keep them slightly more in line. Also, is it rubbing just on
one side or on both sides? If it’s just on one side,
sounds like possibly the wheel isn’t in correctly
or the dish isn’t okay. If it’s on both sides, could
well be you’re running too wide of tires for the drop outs. Sorry, for the actual
chain stays to accommodate. Lastly, this isn’t a good one, really. It could be you’ve got a
small crack in your frame that’s just allowing the wheel to flex and whip around a bit too much. Without actually seeing it,
it’s really hard to give a definite answer. Check all those things, if in doubt, pop down to your local bike shop and see what they’ve got to say about it. The last question this week comes in from iRacecraft who says, “Dear Jon, I love to read almost as
much as I love to cycle. Are there any books you
would recommend to make me a better bike mechanic?” Wow, Roger Moore, My Word Is My Bond, that’s a good book. It’s not going to help you
with your bike mechanics, but I’m a big Roger Moore fan, so I would suggest reading that. As for books becoming a better mechanic, generally, books are great
for learning a theory, but when it comes to the
practical side of things, which is what we’re going
to be doing on our bikes, they’re not that good. With new components
and new bits and pieces always being released,
you’re never going to be really up to date. What I did and how I learned and how every mechanic
I think I know learned is actually by tinkering
around with your own bike. You make a few mistakes,
you fix those mistakes, and then it’s like an
evolution of the whole process. Something you could do is pop
along to your local scrapyard or try and buy a cheap second hand bike if you don’t want to go around and play on your favorite bike, and then actually learn from that bike, because you’re not going to get too upset if you do make a mistake. Say, for instance, if you’re
going to be building wheels, that kind of thing. Hopefully that’ll be okay for you, but there are some
great manuals out there, like the part tool,
they’ve got big blue bible, as I like to call it, and that has loads and loads
of information inside of it. That could well help you. Right, I hope I’ve been
able to help answer and solve your problem this week. If not, as ever, leave it down there in the comment section below and I’ll do my very best to help answer it in an upcoming episode. You now what this drill is by now, remember to like and share this video with your friends. Don’t forget as well to
check out the GCN shop at shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com, we’ve got heaps of goodies
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