DIY Floating Wall-Mounted Bike Rack | How To Build – Woodworking

What’s going on everybody! I’m Johnny Brooke,
welcome back to another Crafted Workshop video. In today’s video, I’m going to show you how
to build this pretty simple floating plywood bike rack. This is a bike rack that is kind
of meant to display your bike, if you will. Put up your bike on the wall in your living
room or den, it’s really beautiful, only holds one bike but is kind of designed to make your
bike the focal point of the room. This would work really well with any kind
of road bike with an open triangle. It will interfere with some bottle cage configurations
and, if you have a full suspension mountain bike, that kind of thing definitely will not
work. This doesn’t work for every bike out there
but it will work for a lot of bikes out there. I do have a free template available for this on my
website, I’ll have a link to that in the video description below if you guys want to build
this for yourself. I guess, without further adieu, let’s go ahead and get started with
the build. I designed this project to be built from two
2 foot by 4 foot plywood project panels, which are available at most home centers. If you
nest the pieces together correctly, you should be able to get 7 pieces per panel, giving
you a total of 14 triangular pieces. The first step is to print off the template
from my website, which spans across two pages, and then tape them together to form the template.
Trim off the excess and then use some spray adhesive to attach the template to your plywood. One trick with spray adhesive: spray it onto
the template and let it dry a little bit before sticking it to the plywood. This will make
it really easy to peel off later, with no sticky residue left behind. After applying the template, I grabbed my
jigsaw and got to cutting, making sure to stay proud of my line. With the outside edges cut, I moved onto cutting
out the inside. First, I used a ½” drill bit and drilled a hole into each corner. Once
the holes were drilled, I cut along my line with the jigsaw, connecting the holes. When cutting plywood with a jigsaw, you want
to make sure and have a fine tooth, wood specific blade in it, since it will leave you with
a much cleaner cut without tearing out the veneer on the surface of the plywood. After cutting the piece to rough shape, I
moved over to the drill press to drill the alignment holes, which are also marked on
the template. These holes allow you to use dowels when assembling the bike rack later,
and are a huge help to keep the pieces from slipping around during the glue up. Once the holes were drilled, I used my spindle
sander to clean up the edges and sand to my lines. This is one of the more handy tools
in the shop and is so useful on projects like this. That said, if you don’t have a spindle
sander, you can just use files, rasps, or just some sandpaper wrapped around a dowel
to get similar results. After sanding, I removed the template, which
peeled right off. Now, let’s talk about a few ways to make 13 more of these triangular
pieces. Alright, so now that we have one of these
done, we need to make 13 more. Efficiency is going to be a big key here so that this
doesn’t drag on forever. One of my favorite ways to duplicate pieces
is with a router and a flush trim bit like this one. It’s got a small bearing on it that
rides up against your original piece. This serves as the template and you get an exact
duplicate of the piece. It’s really easy to do, just attach the two pieces with double
stick tape. That’s one great method. Another method, since this doesn’t really
need to be very precise since there’s going to be a lot of sanding involved once it’s
all glued together anyway, is you could just cut them out kind of to rough shape with the
jigsaw and then, after the glue up, you’ll just take a belt sander to it and get it all
smooth. So that’s another option, especially if you don’t own a router, that’s a really
good option for you. The last option, the one I’m going to go with
is kind of put my robot minions to work and use my Inventables X-Carve to go ahead and
cut out these pieces for me. Obviously, I realize that’s a massive privilege
to have one of these in my shop but it’s really nice to kind of have that working in the background
while I can work on other things, and I know that all of the pieces are going to end up
exactly the same. Let’s go ahead and move over to the X-Carve! I think one common misconception with CNCs
is thinking that they do all of the work for you and you end up with pieces that are just
ready to go. While CNCs are great for creating duplicate pieces like this, there is always
going to be some cleanup work to do afterwards. For example, I used tabs to hold these pieces
in place during the cutting process, which meant I had to cut the tabs to free the pieces.
I did this using a chisel. Once the pieces were cut free, I was left
with these little tabs sticking off the edges of the pieces, and I’ve found the best way
to clean them up is using a flush trim bit on the router table. This goes really quickly, but
with 14 pieces, there were a lot of tabs to remove. With the pieces cleaned up, I moved on to
assembly, which went really smoothly with the help of the alignment holes. I used ½”
dowels between each layer and they kept everything in place while I continued to add more layers.
The dowels were also really helpful when I went to add clamps. Also, it’s definitely a good idea to come
back and remove the glue squeeze out after an hour or so, since it’ll be much harder
to remove once it has fully dried. Don’t ask me how I know that. To add a little more visual interest to my
bike rack, I decided to add a Walnut veneer to the front face of the rack. I made my own
veneer from some scrap Walnut I had on hand, but you can buy pre-made peel and stick veneer
in a ton of different wood species from places like Rockler. To make my veneer, I resawed a few pieces
of Walnut to about 1/4” thick at the bandsaw and then planed them to an even thickness
on the planer. Next, I glued them together, making sure to keep them nicely aligned and
flat. After the glue dried, I cleaned the panel
up at the planer, planing it down to about ⅛” thick. Next, I traced the shape of the rack onto
the veneer and cut away the excess at the bandsaw. Once it was cut to rough size, I glued the
veneer panel to the face of the rack, making sure to use plenty of glue and clamping pressure. After the glue dried, I cut away the inside
area of the rack using a jigsaw. Also, I just got a new GoPro, so expect to see more shots
like this in the future. To flush up the veneer with the edges of the
plywood, I used a flush trim bit on the router table. With the veneer installed, it was time to
get to the tedious process of sanding all of the layers flush. Even using the dowels
for alignment, you’ll be left with glue squeeze out and slight imperfections where
the pieces don’t line up perfectly. The best method for flushing this up is a belt
sander, although flushing up the layers on the inside of the rack are a lot bit trickier
and will require a lot of hand sanding, so just get ready for plenty of sanding here. While I’m sanding, let’s talk about the
sponsor of this week’s video, Rocker Woodworking and Hardware. I used a ton of Rockler products
during this build, including their t-track clamps, Blind Shelf Supports, and Dish Carving
Router Bit, and I’ll have links to all of the items I used in the video description
below. Rockler has got tons of great tools and accessories
for your next build, and they’re always coming up with new and innovative ideas to
help make your woodworking more efficient and more enjoyable. Thanks again to Rockler
for sponsoring this build. After getting everything sanded, next I needed
to route in a groove on the top of the rack for the bike to sit in. I found this 1 ¼”
wide dish carving bit and it was exactly what I needed. I set up the bit on my router table, with
the front edge of the bit about 3 inches from the fence. I made my first pass, then moved
the fence over about 1/2”, to widen the groove. The total width of the groove after
the second pass was roughly 1 1/2”. Next, I needed to drill the holes for the
blind shelf supports. I marked the hole location on each side of the rack, making sure they
were spaced 16” on center to line up with the stud locations in my wall. I drilled the holes on my drill press, since
the holes really need to be nice and square so that the shelf supports can work correctly.
The hole also needs to be drilled roughly 5” deep, so you’ll most likely need an
extra long drill bit for this. Also, a quick note here, I’m using an older
version of Rockler’s blind shelf supports in this video, but it looks like they’ve
actually just come out with a new and improved version that’s more adjustable and includes
the screws for mounting the hardware to your wall. I’ll link to that new version in the
video description, but the process for installing them should be basically the same. After drilling the holes, I marked where the
mounting plate hit the back of the rack and chiseled it out so that the shelf will fit
flush to the wall. The layers of the plywood here really want to pop out, so be careful
and take your time. I actually ended up adding a little CA glue off camera to stabilize some
of the loose pieces. To give the rack a little bit of a cleaner
look, I rounded over the front edges using an ⅛” radius roundover bit and then gave
the whole rack a good sanding up to 180 grit. For the finish, I wiped on a few coats of
a wipe-on poly, allowing each coat to dry for about 8 hours between coats. Next, I cut out a strip of cork to add to
the groove where the bike will rest. This will give the bike some padding and keep the
bike or the shelf from getting damaged over time. To attach the cork to the rack, I just used
some good quality double sided tape. Finally, it was time to install the rack on
the wall. First, I marked the location of my studs using a stud finder, then I put the
shelf supports into the back of the rack and held the rack up to my wall, making sure it
was level. I applied a little pressure, which drove the
pins in the shelf supports into the wall, which marked the exact location where I needed
to install the brackets. To install the brackets, I added two 2 ½”
screws per support. You might notice that I had to cut one corner off of each support
to make sure it was totally hidden behind the rack, and I did this off camera with a
hacksaw. With the shelf supports installed, I added
the rack and it was finished! Alright, hopefully you guys enjoyed this one.
This one ended up being a little trickier than I thought it was going to be. Actually,
just a lot more time consuming with all of the sanding, getting all of these layers nice
and smooth, it took quite a bit of time but I love the way this turned out. I think this is a beautiful piece that would
look great in a loft-style apartment, put your sweet fixie up on here and I think it’d
look really, really cool. Just an FYI on sizing, I built this for a
men’s medium to large road bike. The bike I used in the thumbnail is my wife’s bike,
it’s a small women’s road bike and it just barely fit so you’re going to want to measure
the template before you go about building this to make sure it’s going to fit your bike. It’ll also conflict with some bottle cage
configurations. There’s just so many variables in bikes out there, it’s kind of hard to make
one rack for every bike, but I think this one will work for a lot of bikes. Hopefully you guys enjoyed this one. If you
did, go ahead and get subscribed. I put out new project videos like this pretty much every
week. Also, I have a list of all the tools and materials
I used in the video description below and, last, again I do have a free template available
for this one my website. Go download that and get to building! Alright, thanks again
for watching everybody and, until next time, happy building!