Building The Bike  | Vintage Replica Bike Build Part 2

Building The Bike | Vintage Replica Bike Build Part 2

(whooshing) – Okay, the time has come
to build up this bike into something that loosely resembles what the riders were
using about 100 years ago. And while loads of you loved
it when I built up that cheap bike to super bike so hopefully
this may give some of you an inspiration too. Well, Sai’s got to ride
this bike pretty soon, so I’d better crack on with it. Firstly though, we need to
strip it down almost back to the basics, so I will
be leaving on the bike the chain set and bottom
bracket, the brake levers and calipers, headset, and
also the seat bolt here too. But the rest that’s all
going to be freshly put on. (upbeat saxophone Music) There’s one out. On this side. There we go, that one. Thing is, all these parts will go off to the local
bicycle recycling center. Someone will make good use of
these bits, moving forward. (upbeat piano Music) It’s not very well done up. Bet that rattled a bit. (upbeat music) Seems a shame to be taking
off a rear derailer, after this one. I mean look at it, it’s
so basic and simple. Big old spring there,
and then two limit screws just above it. You could put this on someone
else’s bike, looks like an old Huret one, some Sachs-Huret,
classic from back in the day. These make sure I don’t catch
my finger on any of these exposed bits of cable there,
’cause they have a tendency to really jam into the end of your finger and that hurts a lot, believe me. Time to take off the rim. If you look here, it’s
actually built onto, well almost onto, like
a secondary mech hanger. So the mech hanger joins actually onto the frame itself here by this bolt, which has then got like
a knut on the other side. But then the derailer is
attached onto this kind-of hanger from the rear side. It’s really interesting bit of kit there. I’m going to take it off and
try and save it, cause that’ll come in handy for someone
somewhere, I am sure. Tell you what, it’s a lot
more difficult taking apart an old bike than a new one. Thing about an old bike, you
need loads of different tools, whereas a modern one you
can do virtually everything with a five mm Allen key. Get this off then of the hanger. It’s been so long since I
worked on one of these styles. Do you know what, I think
it’s actually built onto that hanger itself. (ratcheting metal)
(soft music) Course if you were using
anything with a hex head, so you know like this it’s
not like an Allen key head, one of these, try and
use a six sided socket. They’re much better than a 12 sided one. They have a tendency to
round things off, especially on older components, so, there we are. There’s that rear derailer
including the hanger. Look at the state of that. The chain, that’s not really
going to be salvaged though, it’s pretty old and manky. No point in keeping that. Look at the tension in that. None none whatsoever. It’s horrible, it’s so old it’s almost like it’s going to crack. Part of the beauty though
of a bike like this is the condition of it, you know,
despite all the grime on it, it’s still not too bad really. It’s an interesting cable there, though. Obviously the clips are
missing, the originals. They’ve used some old bar tape
here to attach those cables onto the tubes, I’ll put these
gloves on due to the public health warning really of this bike. It’s horrible, this old plastic PVC tape. The old gear that you know,
just attached on via this quite wingnut-like kit. Onto the actual bracket. We’ll leave it on the bracket
though so nothing gets lost. (metal Ratcheting)
(soft music) Okay, I’m going to try and keep
everything as it was so that it can all be reused in the future. All right, let’s cut the cables
though, we don’t need those. Fingers crossed, this stem is going to come
out all right because, these things can be an absolute nightmare. ‘Cause the internal wedge
in them can get stuck, So sometimes you just have
to give it a little bit of, (metal tapping) gentle persuasion, I think that moved! Ah, thank the world for that,
’cause that could’ve been painful for all of us. All right, let’s take off those cables. There we are. Getting down really to
the nitty gritty of it. Let’s take out that seat
post, I know that’s not stuck. I’ve already had a little
play around with that. The head set’s not bad, not bad at all. Tell you what, beautiful
head badge on this bike, bikes don’t come with head
badges like this anymore. Elswick, England. Barton-On Humber. There we are. It’s like a dragon of some
sort, or something like that on the front. Right, I am going to have a little look at the bottom bracket first. Tiny tiny bit of playing
there, and my OCD has gone sort of havoc playing with it right now. So I’m just having a quick
look at that before I start putting everything back on. Oh, let’s take this out though. Good riddance to that, although
I need this the seat clamp, don’t I, for the new seat post. Bottom bracket that’s
spinning alright actually, I was a little bit worried about
this with the cotter pins. It’s not something I really want to mess around with too much. Like I said in the last
episode, horrible little things, I’m glad we’ve seen the
back of them generally. But, what is really cool on
this bike is the oil port down here on the top side of
the bottom bracket shell, so, I’m just going to put a few drops in. The good news is, any excess
will just find it’s way out eventually, but I don’t really want to take it apart and like I
said re-grease it instead. I’ll just put some in there, just maybe to free up a watt or two. Silky smooth already. When I was a kid, one
of my mates had a bike and it had a a little port like this. This one’s obviously lost its
top cap, they used to come with a little steel cap that went on there or a little cork in fact. But this one sadly has
lost that, but, never mind. Time to put one of the
18 tooth free wheel on. We’ve already got a 16
tooth fitted, the new wheel remember it came fitted with an 18 tooth but it was a fixed one. And while that would be
absolutely savage to send Sai off riding on one of those
without telling him, so I’m going to take it off. So for that I am going to
need an old lock ring spanner, just to, oh there we are. It wasn’t even done up, because
they tighten themselves, the lock ring doesn’t, but
the fixed sprocket does, whilst you pedal along. So, let’s just open up this free wheel. What’s really important here
is to make sure you don’t cross thread any soft alloy on
the actual hub shell itself. So I will put just a little
bit of grease on there, just to make sure that it
goes on nice and easily. Of course if I do face any
resistance, I know full well to stop immediately, back
off, and then start again. 18 tooth, kid riders,
says on there as well. Would reckon the free hub. Think we should put
those new tires on next? The bit I’m not looking forward
to is trying to put these old Schrader inner tubes back
inside the tires, because well they’re going to
be quite wide I think. Though, to be fair they
will match up perfectly with the actual width of those
used tires which is 30 mm. I haven’t seen Schrader
several industry tubes in quite some time. Cross your fingers for me please. They’re actually not too bad! 700 by 25 by 32. Well, they should fit absolutely fine. Just that big old valve always
worries me a little bit. Let’s put the first one on then. (upbeat music) I’m not liking the chance
of these tires fitting onto this rim, because, the actual internals of the rim
are really not that shallow. It isn’t ideal, I’ll just take it off, and start again. (upbeat music) This is not going to plan. I’ll tell you what,
this is not going to go. And it’s nothing to do
with the tire I must say, ’cause I just tried it on a
different rim whilst I was struggling and cursing. It’s probably because these
wheels are very cheap, actually, and quite often they’re not manufactured to the same torrances. But the good news is, just
went underneath my desk, and ta-da, I’ve got some
other gum wall tires to put on there, or skin wall if you like. So these ones I’ve already
tried and they go on like a piece of cake. So there we are. Some authenticity is remained. Gum side walls. All right, let’s just hope these inner tubes can go inside now. (upbeat music) Ah, rookie, I need to line that up. (saxophone music) Well my heart can start
beating again now, after that big heart in mouth moment. Well put those up shortly,
first of all we just want to make sure it goes inside the frame okay because older wheels tended
to have different sized axles so we just need to bear that in mind too. So what I am going to do as
well is just space out in between the dropouts with
quite a few washers actually, this axle, just so that I don’t have to crush the frame too much. As you can see there’s a bit
of play there, a little bit of crushing on it, or
if you like, closing off the drop outs doesn’t matter
too much cause of it being steel, but that is far too
much for comfort really. (upbeat music) Look at that. As if by magic, and when people out there are saying it’s not the
right thing to be doing, but to be honest, it’s absolutely fine. All right, time to put
some nuts on the wheel. Just want to make sure the
threads are okay on everything before I go ahead. So now we’ve managed to find
some spacers or washers just to pack out that axle a little bit. It’s time to fit the
rear wheel, and I thought to myself, well bikes back
then, they didn’t actually use nuts like we know them today. Instead they used wing nuts. So I went hunting around in
my own shed, couldn’t find anything, I was convinced I had some. I sent my dad up into his
loft, he found some, sadly, not in time actually for today
though because I couldn’t get to his place, but I did
actually have a go, on my day off to actually try and
fabricate up some wing nuts. So my first attempt wanted to
look something like this here. How neat and tidy that is. So, couple of bits of four
mil steel rod, I drilled just inside of the nut,
just I don’t know if you can see in this one here, I
drilled a little hole in there with the aim of putting that
rod in there and hoping it would be able to sit in
there whilst I arc welded it. Sadly not, and the results
were well, not ideal. So these are actually super glued in, cheated a little bit there. So wing nuts they were
around before quick releases, you tie them at the wheel
like that and essentially you didn’t have to have
a spanner to remove it. My last effort, because
the first one failed when I tried to weld it, looks
something like this. So something like we’d see
on a vintage car almost, a really bad vintage car, but
yeah you get the idea here. So instead of having to use
the spanner you can simply undo it with your fingers,
or at least that’s the thinking of it. I wonder if I should leave
this one on until Sai is absolutely fine, and when
he comes to adjust the back wheel, it’ll just snap
off, and then I’ll get an irate phone call.
(beeps) All right I have got some
fantastic news, newsflash, not only is the sun out,
but, I managed to find my own wing nuts. So check these out! So, went in the attic,
or rather my dad did. He found them, I can put them
on to replace the home made one which I made, or welded together. So fingers crossed, these
are going to do the business. (beep) Right okay, let’s fit the wheel anyway. So what I’m going to do first
of all is set up the wheel with the 16 tooth sprocket on
this side, on the drive side. The reason being, we’ve got
the chain tension, correct? When we come to swap the
wheel around, the 18 tooth, that’s a bigger size, so
essentially it’s going to be pulling it further
forward in the drop out. So I’ll set it up here, right
at the back of the drop out, to try and get that chain
tension set up, when it comes to that so it works nice and correctly. ‘Cause of course when you
don’t have a derailer or a chain catcher or anything like
that, you need to make sure it’s absolutely perfect. I’m not going to touch
these though, instead, do them up just like this. So when Sai’s really suffering
he can’t undo that wheel nut. But who knows actually, maybe
by the time he comes to ride it I’ll have the actual
proper wing nuts in place. Just to give him a little bit of a chance. (upbeat music) Nice. So as predicted, I have
run into a spot of bother. Now the drop outs are slightly
too narrow for this axle. So I am going to have to do a
little bit of dremeling, so, I just wanted to try
and demonstrate there. You can see it’s just slightly too narrow, for the axle to actually pass in. Obviously I don’t want to go
bashing the wheel into place because that’s not going
to do the thread any good, and also potentially not the drop outs. So what I can do, something I
have done in the past before, is not really that advisable,
but is actually just take a fraction of the actual drop
out material off, meaning that you’ve got enough room
to put that axle in place. Yeah, rather Sai than me. Don’t try this at home by the way. (metal grinding) All that paint burning. Almost, we’re getting there. (metal grinding)
(upbeat music) There we are, just enough,
it’s only a fraction, probably not even a millimeter
that needs removing, again this is one of the
joys almost of finding an old bike like this, because nothing
ever seems to go as planned. But that is part of the
love I guess of being a bike mechanic, is trying to find
a solution to problems. I’m just looking at the
bike now thinking, what else am I going to run into as
I gradually build it up? There’s nothing like a
little surprise, is there? (metal grinding)
(upbeat music) A bit more out this side. (metal grinding)
(upbeat music) There we are. It’s in the drop outs. Nice one. (upbeat music) All right time to get a
little bit sticky now, ’cause these chains they’re always
installed with a bit of factory grease on them, but I like that,
cause it always seems to be the best stuff, so. First up we’re going to have
to shorten this chain a little bit, so as you can see there we are. Now this chain comes with a
split link style joining pin. So it’s not like the
traditional pins you put in and snap off, or anything like that. Instead you can see here, first up we need to actually need
to take out a few links just to get it all set up. Here we go, the fun stuff,
one of these chains, not dealt with one of
these in quite a while. Not been on my track bike for awhile. We then put this through
the other side and then this split link here, this goes
in the direction of travel, so the closed end will go
here, because obviously when we’re pedaling that’s the way
it needs to be going, right? We may need just a pair
of pliers here or a little screwdriver just to help it
go on a little bit easier. There we go. So obviously that chain, a bit slack. We need to just adjust that,
and then that will be all fine and done deal I hope. Should just bring it up
just enough to make it okay. (upbeat blues music) Tell you what, the chain
lengths pretty good there too. And I bet there’s people at
home when I was putting on this chain, or at least when I
showed it in the last episode this pink chain, or purple or
whatever you want to call it, you were like, that is
going to look disgusting. Oh no no no, look at it now. Eating your words. Looks all right I reckon. We’ll line up these brake
pads before I go any further. They’re just annoying me. Just want to make sure the pads
are nicely locked in place. (upbeat music) Right next up is to fit
the handle bar and stem, so first of all we’re just
going to put the stem in place, put some grease all ways on
it, the expander bolt as well just put some on that too,
you don’t want these things getting stuck in place. Admittedly, I’m not sure
how long this stem will stay on this bike. So its probably one of
the nicest things about it to be honest. And who knows what we’ll do
with this bike after it’s been out for a ride. Right, let’s put that in. The good news is, I can start to use tools that we’re more familiar with. Got a six millimeter Allen
key here for the actual handle bars, or the stem rather. Just put that in, we’ll just
do it up roughly in line with it’s height for the time being. We won’t focus on it too
much just want to get it nicely set up. It’s time for the handle bars to go in. We just want to make
sure as they go in, they actually follow, you get them
on the correct way around. These days when they had
set in one spot really, they would go straight in there
with the open fronted stems. Sadly, the old bars were
not quite as fortunate. Sometimes its can take a
little jiggery pokery to get them around and into position. Just want to make sure I’m doing that the right way, after all. Spot on and those sort of
indentations, or ripped bits, on the actual bulge there in
the center of the handle bars they help to match up with
the serrations on the inside of them stem too. We’re going to try and put
them nice and horizontal actually, so the drop’s
horizontal to the floor, before torquing up the actual
handle bars themselves. Tell you what, this is
starting to look really good, especially the head
badge and the gold bell. (upbeat bass music) Believe it or not, we are
going to fit these horrible old brake levers on, they’re
held in place with screws rather than Allen key
head inside of there. They’re so simple, when
you can get them off. Rough and ready. Find a suitably uncomfortable
place for these levers, because they are going
to be uncomfortable. If you look, there’s no brake
hoods on them whatsoever. Oh well! All right I do know that Sai
likes a right hand front brake, so that’s what we’re
going to do for this one. (upbeat bass music) Into position on the front brake. And I’m hoping, Sai just
wants to ride up hill so that he doesn’t need any brakes at
all, because I’m missing stops that go in the tops of these levers. Little bit disappointed with that. Big old loop of cable there,
just for authenticity. Ladies and gents, we’ve
got a result, right. No time for the back one. Now I know what to do, should
be relatively straightforward. (upbeat music) Just for show the back
brake, in this case. (upbeat music) Almost done now, just the
toe clips to be attached on. Fiddly fit for a fiddly little item. I’ll fit those into this
old cotter pin crank set. Oh, look at them! Beautiful. I’m going to just swap over
the saddle clamp assembly, as you can see it’s been
fitted back to front on this, so possibly the person who
owned it before was rather short in the upper body and
wanted to get far forward or maybe they were tamp
trots on it, I don’t know. Either way, needs to go on
the back of it and it’s quite a simple affair. I just need to get released
and then fit it onto that new seat post we’ve got along
with the Brooks saddle. But then, we’re near enough good to go. The last thing really is
just to wrap the handle bars, but I’m going to do that when
my hands are nice and clean, and also fit the cleats on
the bottom of Sai’s shoes, and to be honest, I might
leave him to do that. The reason I say that, I’m
pretty particular when it comes to cleat set up, and, there’s
something inside of me which really doesn’t want to
be responsible if someone else gets a knee injury or anything like that because toe clips, you
don’t have any float at all, whereas a clip less pedal
you’ve got quite a bit. And I’m not the only rider
whose pretty particular about that, as people like Mark Cavendish once when I spoke to him about his own cleat set up position, he
said he did it all himself, and didn’t want the
mechanics to do it because he obsessed over that detail. So, well, Sai, if Cav
does it you can do it too. (upbeat music) And as if by magic, there we are. So just needs tying up these two nuts, and that is all sorted. (upbeat bass music) Always put up some grease
on any alloy on alloy. You’d be surprised at the
problems it will cause otherwise. (upbeat bass music) The biggest problem that you
can face working on these bikes, is that everything
tends to use imperial sized nuts and bolts. Of course, for our friends
in the United States that’s not a problem at all,
because generally, so many things out there still use
that, but over this side of the pond, near enough
metric on everything now. Well, there we are. The Elswick whirlwind,
in its restored glory. Well kind of, I think it
looks better than it did when it first arrived into the workshop. Let me know what you think
of it in the comment section below, and also what would
you like to see me tackle next on one of these renovations? I’m keen to find out as ever. Don’t forget and like and share this video with your friends, give
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